Question of the day (month): Fog or Smog?

Oh my goodness, I can't believe how busy I've been!! Since I got here, it's been Ball, and Visit and Move, Oh My!! I want to write about that, and share some pictures, but I think that can wait. What's really been on my mind lately, and what I really want to share, is the crazy environment I'm living in!

The city of Prishtina sits in kind of a bowl, surrounded by mountains. In the non-winter months, I'm told it's really pretty. I saw some of it when I first arrived, and it was neat seeing the mountains and pretty blue skies. Before I got here, I was told "Don't be discouraged by Prishtina in the winter. It does get better." So with that warning, I mentally armed myself for a gray winter. 

As soon as the nights started getting chilly, I noticed the distinct smell of burning. Every night, it started around 4 pm, at dusk. I could smell it coming in my office windows, like a campfire was burning outside. After about a week, I stopped expecting S'mores. One night after work, I walked down the street to a market to grab a few things for dinner, and I struck by how dirty my glasses were. As I looked at the streetlights, there was such a ring of haze, I was amazed I could see anything at work! Of course, cleaning my glasses had no effect, because it was just all the smoke in the air. People here often burn wood in their homes for heat. But another, major source of smoke is the coal-burning power plant located rather close by. 

This was a clear day recently, and you can see the layer of smog lying below the mountains.

Now that the official winter has set in,  the fog is getting worse and worse. Air travel in and out of the city is affected fairly often and the smog doesn't help. It creates a layer that traps the fog in and some days you can barely see in front of your face! Luckily enough, I walk to work, and can get away with walking almost anywhere I need or want to go. So many days I play the game, "Is this fog, or is this smog?" 

Fog (I think. Maybe both) 

Sfog??

Smog. 

Sfog (Fushë Kosovë is more industrial and is downwind of the power plant; it has some of the worst air in the area). 

For those of you wondering how I'm breathing here, what with my allergies and asthma, I will say that it's not exactly a cakewalk. But I'm on extra meds and the Embassy does provide a ton of air purifiers for the houses. I limit my outside air intake on bad days if I have to and even though I'm really close to the power plant, I'm on top of the hill, so the air is slightly better here than it is down in the middle of town. I smell like smoke a lot and I breathe through my scarf. But it's doable. 

I can't wait to take a trip somewhere, because everyone says that's when you truly realize how foggy and dark it is here. The good news is, while the sky may be dark, peoples' spirits are still high, and everyone is still wonderful. We rally in our collective disdain for the gray sky, and find joy in being together. And the Winter Soltice is tomorrow, so it's all uphill from here!!